Post on 16.07.2018

Haute Couture Mystery by Julien Fournié

For the upcoming FW season, the French couturier presents a collection designed for the classic couture clients as well as the Millennial Ladies in search of the ultimate Parisian chic.

A detail-oriented perfectionist, Julien Fournié always makes sure to introduce his ideas with a written presentation containing a clear introduction to his latest creative approach. When he announced, for July 2018 Fashion Week, a collection inspired by crime movies and their legendary heroines, the audience eagerly awaited the show with growing excitement. And, not surprisingly for those who know him, each of the 33 silhouettes revealed these seemingly innocuous details and delightful elements of surprise which not only portray the topic of the new collection, but which can be expected exclusively by skilled Haute couture artisans.



Not only can the silhouettes of each garment be considered a modern version of Alfred Hitchcock’s classic beauties, but they are also able to bring out the mystery and drama that is part of the couture spirit. One only wonders how the couturier can deliver such a collection of fabulous outfits while balancing between elegance and aristocracy, in a way that is strict and sexy at the same time.  Since it is all very film noir, Julien Fournié follows the main cinematographic rule that characterizes the “crime” movies, emphasizing the contrast between darkness and light, between the hidden parts and the tiny, little signs. Julien not only shows the contrast on the catwalk, introducing the first silhouette like a shadow in a dramatic black and red lighting, but he translates the cinematographic vision sartorially on the entire collection. The designer plays with volumes, balancing between strongly fitted bodies, buttoned up to the neck, with arms fully covered, balancing wide, beautifully flowing skirts, dancing around the legs. As a juxtaposition in the collection, Julien Fournié alternately offers a more tubular line, expressed with his splendid jumpsuits or beautiful, simple line suits which seem to just step out of a modern Agatha Christie movie. Once again, the shoulder line is simply perfect, enhancing the outfit. Not easily detectable on the runway are the numerous little pleats, with a precision in the details that make the cuts laser sharp but visually highly feminine. Many a couture connoisseur will admit that this collection is one of Julien’s best, certainly one of the most sophisticated and accomplished, looking chic and desirable and yet being extremely technical on a sartorial level.

The color palette ideally emphasizes the dramatic approach: shiny fabrics contrast with strong color tones, mostly plain and a few jacquards, ranging from a sexy red to a golden yellow, several splendid blue tones, black, grey and as well as a leopard pattern. All silhouettes are completed with matching high heeled T-straps and some are accessorized with cross body bags.

Julien Fournié, a cool and smart man, who applies simultaneously new technology and traditional couture techniques, is one of the rare designers to possess a strong, consistent style identity. With his vision, he always designs a different story starring his muse, a strong woman, very elegant and totally aware of her femininity: a lady who knows exactly how to play with the mystery of her image.


Jacqueline Sablayrolles